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The first backpack trip

Twenty Days, One Backpack

Europe · 2008

In 2008, I was a junior sales rep at NDTV. My salary was ₹28,000 a month, plus ₹9,000 for conveyance. I had a job, a limited budget and a dream of travelling through Europe.

So I planned my first backpacking trip.

Gagan’s desk at the NDTV office, with a laptop and telephone
My NDTV desk, where the trip began to take shape.

A travel agent who was also one of my clients helped me put the route together. He knew Switzerland particularly well. I booked hostels and worked out a journey through the Czech Republic, Austria, Germany and finally Switzerland. I had eighteen days.

A tram passing through a cobbled European street
On the move through old streets.
Gagan with his backpack in a flower-lined town square
Backpack on, another town to explore.

Getting the paperwork together was its own adventure. I needed a letter from work for my visa application, and my boss’s boss kept delaying it. I was the most junior person around, so my holiday didn’t seem especially urgent to anyone else. After days of following up, I finally got the letter. By then, the flight I wanted had become more expensive. The itinerary changed, and my eighteen-day trip became twenty days.

I went anyway.

I travelled with a backpack and the kind of food that could survive one: Maggi and ready-to-eat packets. I stayed in hostels, cooked in shared kitchens and sometimes shared food with the people I met there. I drank water from bathroom taps because it was safe, free and one less thing to buy.

Gagan posing in a town square with mountains behind him
A town square and the mountains beyond it.

I remember paying €12 for a pizza—the only restaurant meal of the trip. That amount might sound small now. On my salary, every euro demanded a moment of thought.

The route took me through old European streets, Austrian towns such as Salzburg and Innsbruck, Munich, and then six days in Switzerland. I don’t remember every train or hostel after all these years. I remember the excitement of waking up somewhere new and knowing I had worked out how to get there.

Gagan leaning on a riverside railing
A quiet pause beside the water.
A Swiss-flagged passenger boat on a lake
Switzerland, seen from the waterfront.
Gagan with a panorama of snow-covered Swiss mountains
That first view of the mountains.
Gagan seated in front of a glacier and snowy peaks
Snow and glacier as far as I could see.

Switzerland took my heart. I also learnt something small there that stayed with me. In a shop, the woman at the counter must have thanked me ten times in two or three minutes. I came away thinking about my Ps and Qs—the simple habit of saying please and thank you, and making another person feel welcome. Switzerland deserves a story of its own.

Gagan standing beside a waterfront with Swiss flags
Still travelling through Switzerland.
Gagan taking a break indoors with a Swiss-cross cap
A break between days on the road.
Gagan holding a large Swiss flag on a snowfield
A Swiss flag on the snow.
Gagan beside a Matterhorn Glacier Paradise lift sign
Up at Matterhorn Glacier Paradise.
Gagan standing with open arms on a snowy mountain
One of those moments I had travelled for.
Gagan at a Jungfraujoch Top of Europe sign made of ice
At Jungfraujoch.

While I was still there, an email arrived from my boss. I was supposed to be back in the office that day.

I can laugh about it now. At the time, I was a junior employee somewhere in Switzerland, two days beyond the original plan, with a backpack and probably another packet of Maggi. I’m glad I took those days.

A wooden building beneath a pointed roof at the Arctic Circle
Another frame from the 2008 Europe album: the Arctic Circle.
Gagan crouching beside an Arctic Circle marker
At the Arctic Circle marker.

I’ve returned to Europe many times since. That first trip remains special because it showed me I didn’t have to wait for a bigger salary or a perfect plan to begin travelling. In 2008, I found a way to go. The twenty years of journeys that followed began there.

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