Gagan standing inside the red I amsterdam sign
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Spain, Amsterdam & an unexpected gift

The ₹1 Lakh Cheque

Europe · 2010

In 2010, I was earning around ₹34,000–35,000 a month, plus conveyance. I wanted another backpacking trip through Europe. I kept looking at routes and planning holidays for friends, even though I couldn’t work out how to pay for my own.

One of my clients was also a good friend. He asked for help with the media plan for a mobile phone launch called G’Five. I put the plan together and shared a few contacts. I thought I was helping a friend.

One day, I was sitting in his office when he took out his chequebook and wrote me a cheque for ₹1 lakh.

I asked him why. He said, “For the work.”

I told him I had done it for our friendship. He said he had earned money from the project and wanted to share it with me. I wasn’t expecting a rupee. Suddenly, I had enough to start planning.

The next day, my laptop was open and I was putting together a twenty-day trip to Europe.

Gagan resting on a grassy lawn during the 2010 trip
A pause on the road, with twenty days to explore.

It was another backpack trip: hostels, Maggi, ready-to-eat food and tap water wherever it was safe to drink. I saved on meals so I could spend my money on being there. I also carried a letter from work that helped me get entry to some churches and museums.

A casual food counter from the backpacking trip
Keeping meals simple kept the trip going.

Spain was a big part of the trip. I went through Barcelona and Madrid, finding my way around even when I couldn’t speak the language and the people I met couldn’t speak much English. In a Barcelona hostel, I shared a room with three Americans. We got talking, and they were surprised by how much I knew about the United States when I hadn’t yet been there. That is one of the things I loved about hostels: you could start the day among strangers and end it with stories from three different countries.

Two roommates relaxing on bunk beds in a hostel
Hostel life: strangers, bunk beds and stories to swap.
Gagan above the city of Barcelona
Looking out over Barcelona.
Gagan in the stands of a Barcelona stadium
A stop at the stadium.
Gagan beside a bull sculpture in Spain
A roadside memory from Spain.
A broad sunlit arena with tiered seating
The scale of an old arena.
Gagan beside a fountain with statues and lions
A fountain along the way.
Gagan on a Spanish waterfront with mountains beyond the bay
From city streets to the coast.
Gagan with open arms beside a Spanish beach
Another sunny day on the Spanish coast.

In the evenings, someone would come around the hostel offering to take people out to bars for five or ten euros. I went along a few times. Those nights were part of the trip too.

A tram on an Amsterdam street
On foot and by tram in Amsterdam.
A flag-lined canal street in Amsterdam
The streets around the canals.
Gagan taking a photo on an Amsterdam street
Still looking at everything through a camera.
Gagan with a fellow traveller beside an Amsterdam canal
A fellow traveller met along the way.

By the time I reached Amsterdam, my cash was running out. At that age, I didn’t have a credit card to fall back on. I went to a cybercafé and messaged a few friends: could anyone send me ₹5,000 or ₹10,000 to help me finish the trip? Some did.

Gagan standing inside the red I amsterdam sign
At the sign, while the adventure was still unfolding.
A fellow traveller beside an Amsterdam canal at dusk
Amsterdam after dark.

I remember sitting there in the middle of Europe, working out how much money I had left and where I could go next. It felt like one more part of the backpacking adventure. My friends helped me keep it going.

Gagan’s friend in a red striped sweater, seated at a desk
One of the friends who lent me money so I could finish the Amsterdam trip.

Looking back, I remember the cheque and the hostel rooms as clearly as the cities. My client paid me for work I had thought nothing of doing for him. Later, my friends helped me finish the trip. In between, I got twenty days on the road that I still hold close to my heart.

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